How cold is Harbin? It’s the opening scenes of Empire Strikes Back cold. In fact when we alighted from the train Tanya’s nostrils froze.
How Cold.....Empire Strikes Back Cold!
From everything we read, everyone talked about the cold. I’ve heard stories about frozen cameras, lost ears, frostbite and such. You can understand why then, we were in a bit of a panic wondering what to wear, especially when all websites spoke about the bitter cold, but only advised that you “take a jacket”……….er…….no shit.
So, without further ado, I will list what I wore to keep warm and toasty in -30 degrees Celsius temperatures.
Recipe for a warm and comfortable trip to Harbin
Base Layer
1. One pair of polyprop long johns
2. One long sleeve polyprop undershit
3. One polyprop muscle-shirt (muscles optional)
4. One t-shirt (short sleeved)
5. One pair silk socks
6. Stick on heat packs, stuck over / around the toe region
Middle Layer
1. One pair of polar fleece lined cargo pants.
2. One zip up fleece jacket
Outer Layer
1. Two additional pairs of woolen socks.
2. One down jacket, with cool faux fur lined hood
3. Waterproof Snow Pants
4. One polar fleece beanie
5. One woolen beanie, also lined with polar fleece
6. ear muffs
7. frost mask
8. gloves
You can imagine the hijinks that ensued when two people tried to put on this many clothes in a space about as big as a disabled toilet.
Dressed to Impress
After thawing out Tanya’s nose we looked around and there were about 500 or so people waiting for a taxi, so we threw caution to the wind, and engaged the services of one of the 1,000 taxi touts. For 5 times the usual price, we were ushered into a crappy Chinese van, complete with a small axe ornament hanging off the rear view mirror. We were promptly deposited at the Shangri-la, without being hacked into pieces or driven into the middle of nowhere and left for dead.
The Shangri-la in Harbin, is kind of like a large 5 star version of Fawlty Towers. They have about 100 or so Manuel’s, none of whom speak English, Spanish or even comprehensible Chinese. We managed to get checked in and then set out to find “a dumpling place” our friends had told us about for a spot of breakfast.
