Dragon Air WTF?

Today, I was justifiably excited!!!

I had half a day off work and planned to fly to Hong Kong in the afternoon.  We rocked up at the airport to board the 2pm KA991, checked in, got into the lounge and waited.  As usual the muppets at American Express Travel (not afraid to name names on this blog) had not sent through my frequent flyer details, so we were way down the back of the bus in a crappy seat.  Not off to a good start.

We knew something was amiss, when the cabin lighting kept switching on and off and the engines kept powering up and down.  After 30 minutes of this, with no announcements, captain comes on and tells us we are having “electrical problems” duh.  We sit on the plane and wait, for another hour.

Why were we waiting for so long when we had already been told the plane would not be flying to Hong Kong without repairs I hear you asking?  Because some, numpty in the airport had decided to not let us back off the aircraft as we needed to go through the airport beurocracy and mountains of paperwork in order to be let back off the plane, strangely enough, we were only going airside and not back into China, but forms had to be filled in and probably chopped.  This took one hour.  Now that the eyes of the world are on South Africa, no one in China gives a shit, so it’s back to business as usual.

We figured we would try and get onto a different flight, however by the time we got off the plane there was already a scrum of people screaming at two harried staff at the gate, so we figured as “premium” clientele we would simply go off to the lounge where everything would be handled in a courteous, efficient and competent manner. :-D

At the lounge, we knew we were in for another great moment in Chinese customer service.  At the lounge there were a total of four staff, however there was only one that was doing any work.  It seems that even though China has embraced capitalism in a big sweaty bear hug, some vestiges of communism, such as full employment are still hard to let go.  We were greeted  at the door and I explained our dilemma and how we would like to get onto a new flight, “business or first” the lady says to me, so I says “so long as we don’t have to pay, I’ll happily fly either”, “business or first” she says again…..at this point it dawned on me that this quite possibly was the only words / English phrase she knows.  I switch over to Mandarin, well broken Mandarin, but still enough for her to understand what we want, she directs us to the large queue in front of the only person doing anything…great!

Waiting in the queue, we hear the guy in front of us get told that he can get re-booked onto a different flight, but he has to go back…..way back to the check-in counter to get his boarding pass, WTF!!!  This involves a 2 kilometre walk and a short train ride!  Naturally he’s a little bit upset about this and wonders why this a). cant be done in the lounge or b). why can’t it be done at the gate.  After about 10 minutes of deliberation, a near riot by people in the line and lots of loud suggestions from the crowd of PASSENGERS that this CAN in fact be done at the gate, said gentleman went off to the gate to pick up his boarding pass.  At this point we decide to stay with our original flight and wander into the lounge.

I think I must have had one foot inside the threshold of the lounge when we were pretty much crash tackled and told we were not allowed in as we didn’t have a “lounge invitation”.  I explained that we had already been in and therefore had already surrendered our invitation.  We are then told to “get out” , at this point….I lost my temper and began explaining in a loud clear voice why I was allowed in the lounge, some would say I was shouting, Tanya told me to calm down, but I feel loud clear English often works well.  In the end we make the door bitch go out and start going through every single lounge invitation in the box to find ours, it was fun for 5 minutes, but happily I had an old lounge invitation from a trip to Taipei that I didn’t use, slapped this down on the desk and went in for a relaxing and cleansing ale.

The proper way to handle the above situation would have been as follows….

Door Bitch : “Sir, may I see your lounge pass”

Me: “Terribly sorry, but you relieved me of it when I was here previously”

Door Bitch: “Oh, I very humbly apologise, can I just check your boarding pass”

Door Bitch : “Thankyou so much for your kind patronage of our airline, I see you are a frequent flyer.  We have a special area in the lounge for you, would you like a flute of Mumms, a foot massage and a plate of swan and cucumber sandwiches?”

See, customer service isn’t that hard.  After waiting around for another hour, we eventually took off a full 3 hours later.

Funnily enough, they are better than Air China…..well, relatively better.

Posted in Airlines | Leave a comment

Bhutan Death March – Training Walk One Jinshanling to Simatai Great Wall

In May, I am off to Bhutan.  In preparation for the monumental undertaking I have engaged the services of a sadomasochistic Chinese trainer, who shouts slogans at me and stretches me into incomprehensible positions.  I am also running up (and down) the fire stairs of my building, with my personal best a staggering 22 stories out of a possible 32.  I’ve even managed to give up drinking, for 7 days straight and have now cut down on alcohol consumption,  heavily.  Although I did have a monumental evening at the Australian Chamber of Commerce Ball.

As part of this new training regime, I figured I should throw in a few hikes, so this weekend 3 intrepid explorers set off to conquer the Jinshanling to Simatai section of the wall.   Five hours, 32 watch towers, numerous ascents/descents and 16 kilometres later, we made it.

Here are a few photo’s of the trek.

North's up right?

Basically all you can tell from these maps is that you have a bloody long way to go.  North seems to change, we saw it point down, up, left and even right.  Get to the top of the wall and turn left.  Keep going.

We've walked HOW far

At this point you’ve made it up to the wall and down that bloody big hill.  I was already buggerred.  The wall is rugged and ruined in this section.  It is the best Great Wall experience I have had so far.

Which piece of clothing will Heidi take off next

What article of clothing will Heidi take off next

This was Beijing’s warmest day in a long long time, our mate Heidi had decided to take the layering system to an extreme.  She takes off more and more clothes as the walk goes on.  If that last paragraph doesn’t up my Google ranking, I don’t know what will.

Steep AND dangerous

The walk is bloody steep and dangerous in parts.  You have to walk right on the edge of precipitous drops.  The condition of these stairs is typical on the Jinshanling section.

You! In the blue shirt, get out of the bloody way

Like I said, you have to walk right on the edge, I love this photo.  From where I was sitting, I am also on the opposite edge of the wall.  Go Tans!

Rest time

Above, you will see an example of the total level of buggerred-ness that you will feel after walking up an absolute shitload of uneven, rocky, moving stairs.

It just goes on and on

On and on and on it goes.

Halfway point

More and more stairclimbing awaits you.

Will it never end

From memory, this is about halfway.  You can see the wall continuing on over the mountains.  We still have to walk over that.

Long and winding road / wall

We also still have to walk over this section.  One step at a time.  This section of the wall is great, as you get long stretches, watch towers and compact winding sections like this.

Strong bridge, strong wood

At the end of the walk you get to walk over this cool Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom style bridge, and you get to see what happens when a river intersects the great wall.

The End

After the swing bridge, you then have to walk up a massive hill to finally get to the end.  At the end there is a surprise, I’ll spoil it for you by telling you that you get to ride the rest of the way on a flying fox.

100% Safe

A smart sign with no date and some obvious age to it lets you know that your a-ok! on the flying fox.

Flying Fox

As you can see in the above image, it sure beats the shit out of walking anymore.  By the way that water is Beijings water supply.

Finally at the end, I drank 3 longnecks and rode home in the Bling Mobile!

Bling Mobile interior

If Liberace drove, I’m sure his cockpit would have looked like this.

Bling Mobile Interior #2

Afterwards, we all went to Luga’s and drank many many Margahritas.  These helped ease the pain.

Over and out.

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Harbin Ice Festival

Finally, the time had arrived and we headed over to the Ice Festival at 4pm.  We had a friendly taxi driver who took us to a place where we could buy our tickets for a discounted price and avoid the queues.  Initially my bullshit detector was going off, but it turned out to be true.  Luckily I am such a trusting soul :-D .

The ice festival has it all.

A huge impressive entrance.

Harbin Ice Festival Gate

Massive Buddha statues made out of snow.

A 4 storey high snow buddah

Real, live, arctic foxes.

A real live fur coat

Yaks, built for snow.

It's a long way to Bethlehem

Arctic Explorers.

Arctic Explorers

Brave stuntmen.

Sledding

Building, after building after building made of ice.  It is truly amazing.

We spent around 4 hours in -30 degree temperatures.  We were out in it so long, Tanya’s eyelashes froze.

Frozen Eyelashes

Cool eh?

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Downtown Harbin

Into a taxi, traveling on a business card and a prayer to try and find the dumpling place our mates in Beijing had told us, was a must eat in Harbin.  For some reason, both of us had visions of a quaint Chinese style snowy village, instead Harbin is a massive metropolis with around 9 million people, it’s twice the size of Melbourne and yet another random Chinese town you’ve probably never heard of where an absolute shitload of people live.

Harbin is well and truly into the swing of things with the Ice Festival, there are heaps of ice Pac Men and “I Love You” signs spread throughout the city, and with the mercury nudging -20 at 10am in the morning, it’s not going to melt in a hurry.

I Love You Too, Harbin

We found the breakfast place, which wasn’t open, but they let us in so we could wait, unfortunately this turned out to be a 40 minute wait, where we witnessed the most half assed cleaning I have seen here to date.  It consisted of two phases.  Phase one consisted of a guy wandering around smoking and spitting on the floor, phase two consisted of same bloke pushing around two wet mops, job done!

Breakfast of Champions

After a breakfast of Jiaozi, vegetable soup and tea, who’s quality and tastiness was in stark contrast to the quality of cleaning, we jumped into another taxi and headed downtown to Zhongyang Main St, also known as Kitaiskaya St, due to Harbin’s heavy Russian influence.

More Russian than Borscht!

Zhongyang Main St, is a mashup of Russian and European architectural styles, it’s full of shopping malls, baroque buildings, byzantine facades, Russian bakeries and at this time of year ice sculptures.

We saw a wedding.  Harbin is a very popular place to get married.

Harbin Wedding

Along with some nutcase, that I busted taking photo’s of me.  Obviously, my rugged good looks are still visible, even under all these clothes.

Take my photo, I dare you

Harbin even has a JeansWest, but I fear their current business model may need some tweaking.

JeansWest Summer Sale....in Winter

We spent about 4 hours downtown, and then repaired to the Shangri-la’s ice bar for a few hot chocolates and my new favorite Chinese beer.  Harbin Beer.  God bless those Ruskies!

Harbin Lager....it's got the flavour

Tanya indulged in a few show tunes on the Piano.

Sing us the Song, you're the Piano woMAN

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Dress to Impress, Harbin Style

How cold is Harbin?  It’s the opening scenes of Empire Strikes Back cold.  In fact when we alighted from the train Tanya’s nostrils froze.

How Cold.....Empire Strikes Back Cold!

From everything we read, everyone talked about the cold.  I’ve heard stories about frozen cameras, lost ears, frostbite and such.  You can understand why then, we were in a bit of a panic wondering what to wear, especially when all websites spoke about the bitter cold, but only advised that you “take a jacket”……….er…….no shit.

So, without further ado, I will list what I wore to keep warm and toasty in -30 degrees Celsius temperatures.

Recipe for a warm and comfortable trip to Harbin

Base Layer

1. One pair of polyprop long johns

2. One long sleeve polyprop undershit

3. One polyprop muscle-shirt (muscles optional)

4. One t-shirt (short sleeved)

5. One pair silk socks

6. Stick on heat packs, stuck over / around the toe region

Middle Layer

1. One pair of polar fleece lined cargo pants.

2. One zip up fleece jacket

Outer Layer

1. Two additional pairs of woolen socks.

2. One down jacket, with cool faux fur lined hood

3. Waterproof Snow Pants

4. One polar fleece beanie

5. One woolen beanie, also lined with polar fleece

6. ear muffs

7. frost mask

8. gloves

You can imagine the hijinks that ensued when two people tried to put on this many clothes in a space about as big as a disabled toilet.

Dressed to Impress

After thawing out Tanya’s nose we looked around and there were about 500 or so people waiting for a taxi, so we threw caution to the wind, and engaged the services of one of the 1,000 taxi touts.  For 5 times the usual price, we were ushered into a crappy Chinese van, complete with a small axe ornament hanging off the rear view mirror.  We were promptly deposited at the Shangri-la, without being hacked into pieces or driven into the middle of nowhere and left for dead.

The Shangri-la in Harbin, is kind of like a large 5 star version of Fawlty Towers.  They have about 100 or so Manuel’s, none of whom speak English, Spanish or even comprehensible Chinese.  We managed to get checked in and then set out to find “a dumpling place” our friends had told us about for a spot of breakfast.

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Train to Harbin

After spending the last few weeks on hiatus in Canada, where it seems everyone we met was either stoned, slow eh, an Australian working in Whistler or the entire trifecta we arrived back in China.

Not knowing if the venerable “LargeAmericanCorp” will renew my time in China for another year, we decided to forgo spending the weekend on the couch watching pirated cheap DVD’s and do a whirlwind run up to the frozen wasteland that is Harbin for the Ice Festival.

During the week Tanya went shopping and kitted us out with all of our Arctic gear, you’ll see in an upcoming post that it is cold……damn cold in Harbin.

Friday night arrives and we race off to the Beijing South Railway station and join the crush of people and their striped plastic bags full of plunder, heading back to their respective cities and towns.  Think rush hour at Sydney Airport on a Friday night, except about 100 times as big and with a lot more pushing, smoking and wide eyed staring.

We fought our way through the crush and entered our opulent and luxurious 2 person cabin, and it was pretty luxurious, it was nice and clean, had lots of lace doilies, it’s own toilet (which didn’t flush) and a little man in a snappy navy blue uniform that brought us jugs of hot water.  It was pretty damn comfortable.  We sat up and talked as the Beijing city limits slipped away and the train rushed headlong into the frozen darkness.  Afterwards, we went to sleep.  I can’t say enough good things about Chinese trains.  We’ve caught one from Pyongyang back to Beijing and now Beijing to Harbin and we love them.

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Zamin Uud

Zamin Uud, as far as remote, dusty border outposts go, it’s got it all………..

Full international roaming, a must for your high powered IT executive.

Global Roaming.......Yeah Baby!!!

Global Roaming.......Yeah Baby!!!

Alfresco Snooker.

Step out into sub zero temperatures for a spot of snooker

Step out into sub zero temperatures for a spot of snooker

Comfortable Housing.

Ger's a go go

Ger's a go go

Friendly Locals.

Like walking around inside National Geographic

Like walking around inside National Geographic

Random bovines wandering the streets.

IMG_5642

Zamin Uud - greenest pastures this side of the Gobi

Luxurious gentleman clubs, where one can avail oneself of a local lass.

Ew, we saw someone hanging out sheets behind this place

Ew, we saw someone hanging out sheets behind this place

An efficient supply chain…

From the farm.......

From the farm.......

And then……..

To the table

To the table

Finally……..

One VERY satisfied customer

One VERY satisfied customer

As an aside if you do go to Zamin Uud, the above hotel / restaurant was the best in town and definitely has the cleanest toilet in all of China and possibly Mongolia.

IMG_5613

Welcome!

Zamin Uud………Something for Everyone

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Crossing the Line

We actually knew that we needed to cross the border in a vehicle.  Lord knows why this rule is in effect, it’s basically resulted in an industry of shifty buggers, in old UAV Russian Jeeps, that stake out the border with the express mission of screwing every last cent out of people wanting to cross.  Many people went past and wanted way too much money.  Even the Mongolian Police are in on the act, they wanted RMB 160 for the two of us, no negotiating!

The Mighty UAV Jeeps of Mongolia

The Mighty UAV Jeeps of Mongolia

It took us around 40 minutes for us to find someone that would take us, and then the dodgeyness began in ernest.  We approached 2 Chinese dudes in a white hatchback who were happy to do the job for RMB 100 flat, we knew this was the “correct” price and engaged their services.

About 2 minutes into the journey and now in the no-mans land with no ability to cross back these jokers inform us that they dont have the correct paperwork and cannot go all the way into Mongolia.  Happily no money has changed hands, so we figure we will continue on.  We enter the customs building and find that we have to fill in the number plate of the car on our immigration form, but we have no idea what it is, “no problem” says the friendly Chinese border guard, just write 1234!  They then go through every single page in my passport, not to check for anything, they just hadn’t seen an Australian passport before and all thought it was a beautiful document, with a friendly pat on the back we were ushered outside and now stood in No Mans Land.

Waiting in no mans land was a different Mongolian dude, who would take us the rest of the way.  He already had another passenger, and we all happily sped off to Mongolian customs.  We cleared through a very retro health check, it could have been straight out of the 1950′s and made our way into immigration.  It turns out that our fellow passenger was traveling on a false document and was swiftly detained for what was undoubtedly severe punishment.  Unfortunately for us it also meant that we had lost our ride, but not to worry, we’d been passed to a Mongolian couple that would take us all the way to Zamin Uud.  We paid our money, got into the new car and drove off into the wilds of the Gobi desert, with a pumping Mongolian techno soundtrack.

Welcome To Mongolia

Welcome To Mongolia

After a twelve hour bus ride, 3 – 4 hours squatting in a hotel lobby, a 7km walk, 2 cars and a jeep we had arrived in Zamin Uud, Mongolia.

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The Long March, Tightarse Stylie of course

We left the warmth and cheap accommodations of the Xin Tian Hotel and stepped out into an invigorating -7 Degree Celcius morning.  For our Fahrenheit Friends, not yet acquainted with the metric system that equates to “bloody cold”.

In the spirit of true tightarse-edness, we decided to walk the 5 or so kilometers to the border.

On the way we stopped in at the Sino truck dealership to peruse the latest offerings in Chinese farm equipment.

Sinotruck!

Sinotruck!

We met crushing disappointment at the zodiac park.  Some muppet had nicked Tanya’s statue!

Sadness at the Zodiac park

Sadness at the Zodiac park

Finally we were in sight of the border, not sure if we were close to the pot of gold, or if China is trying to present a “gay friendly” vibe to their brothers and sisters over the border in Mongolia.  Whatever…….the rainbow was a nice touch.

All this for an exit stamp!

All this for an exit stamp!

We walked the remaining couple of hundred metres to the border, only to find out that you cannot cross on foot.  Has our golden run of champagne tightarse-ness come to an end!

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Tightarse Visa Run – It’s 3am I must be lonely

Not sure how much I slept, I estimate between 30 minutes and 2 hours.  The bed just wasn’t long enough for this large lumbering Western giant to get comfy on, like many things, the sleeper bus is good in theory, not so good in practice.

We were deposited at the Erlian (二连) bus station at 3:00am.  From our extensive research (about 1 hour of Googling) we figured there would be at least a cosy cafe, or Chinese restaurant open offering up breakfast and sustinance to weary travelers from the sleepr bus, but no.

Instead, we spent the next 30 minutes running around and around the bus trying to avoid people who flat out refused to understand my Chinese and who’s Enligh only consisted of “Hello, Taxi?”.

Giving these guys the slip was no mean feat.  I had to fight through a scrum of people offloading massive sacks of food, electric kettles, steam irons and tractor parts  that were destined for sale in Mongolia to get my pack, whilst using the other hand to swat away the grasp of about 3 or 4 taxi touts.

After getting out of that mess and out of the bus station, we wandered around the streets of Erlian, followed by an armada of Taxi’s.  It took around 20 minutes of the now ubiqitous “hello, Taxi?”, flashing of lights, slow following, driving around in circles on the road and horn tooting for all the taxi’s in Erlian to realise that we were quite happy walking…….not that we knew where we were going.

Road to Nowhere

Road to Nowhere

It was 4am, -7 degrees, pitch black and looked like the opening scenes of An American Werewolf in London, so we decided to go for a walk to keep warm and to find somewhere warm to wait until the border opened at 8am.  We actually walked almost to the border before the cold, and boredom sent us back to the only hotel we had seen, near the bus station, the Xin Tian Hotel.

Not so clean......or secure........but warm

Not so clean......or secure........but warm

Happily the salubrious Xin Tian hotel’s doors were unlocked, the heat on, and all of the staff fast asleep.  After consulting the room rates, we decided the O’Clock room would be far to noisy and expensive, so took the tight arse option of the common room.

Right price for a Tight Arse visa run.....zipoo!

Right price for a Tight Arse visa run.....zip!

We were able to get a wee bit of kip on this very regal-esque lounge suite, all for a price that kept us within our tight arse budget.

Dusty, Smokey.......but warm

$0....a happy tightarse!!

After taking our morning ablutions in the ultra clean facilities, we were pretty glad we had opted for the common room, as it was only slightly cleaner than the common toilet.

Hmmm.......yummy

Hmmm.......yummy

At around 7am, we breakfasted on leftover, partially frozen baguette with a still frozen Snickers chaser for desert.

Incidentally the staff did wake up, looked us up and down, decided it was all to hard and went back to bed.  It was obviously way to early, to figure out how and why two foreigners are sleeping in your hotel lobby.

After this we left and walked to the border

Posted in Beijing, Photos | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment