We spent the morning not moving much, but we did go for a walk to check out a garden. Ended up being followed by yet another mutt, friendly but they still make me feel uneasy, as I am sure that one bite will render all shots we have had null and or void. Walked to far, missed the garden so we had to double back. We found it but it was boring plants and trees. I suspect the garden was run by Santarios as there were numerous dolls heads sans body amongst the bushes. The sun had bleached most of their eyes so the all had a curiously possessed / zombified look about them. My suspicions were confirmed when at the end we were offered a tantalising array of fruit, most of which was past it’s prime, although you probably could have made a tasty cake form the black bananas, and ultimately led into the gardeners house. The house was full of photo’s and a large Santaria shrine. There was even a scary old crone on the balcony…….tipped them 1 cuc………at least they wont send any bad voodoo gris gris our way…….we hope.We then spent the rest of the day up at the Hotel los Jasmines………which has a half full pool, stunning valley vistas and pretty cheap drinks at the bar. Spent the afternoon in the sun and had a few rum and cokes. At sunset, totally out of the blue Jackie who we had met in Havana pulled up a deck chair beside us. Me being in my usual self absorbed state did not notice at all………but Tans spotted her. We caught a cab back to town together and arranged to meet after tea.
OK, let me walk you through our “last supper” in Vinales. On the recommendation of our walking guide, who is a friend of the family, we opted for the fish. Presented before us was a table veritably heaving under the weight of the food upon it. 1 large red snapper like fish…….each……with chips and lemon wedges, 1 large bowl of frijoles negro, 1 massive plate of rice (could feed 6), the usual beans / cucumber / tomato salad, fried plantains, fried tostadas, fried chips, fried malanga, and still more bloody fruit. Managed to put away the fish and a few bowl of frijoles negro…..fish was very fresh. Also there was a big wine glass each of ice cream…….followed by coffee on the veranda.
I was farting around, getting the torch I think when the whole town of Vinales suffered a total blackout. Tans was on the veranda outside and was overwhelmed by the most amazing darkness she had ever seen complete with galaxies of bright and clear stars. She could not see her hand in front of her face. This only lasted for about 1 minute as the resourceful locals are all equipped with large battery operated fluro lights.
We walked up to the bar where the only thing getting power was the siren on the generator. We cannot ascertain what the generator was powering………..possibly the Internet cafe. Made it to the pub where we met Jackie. Spent the rest of the night with my mate Ron and a few cigars. Unfortunately had to fend off the advances of a rather amorous Cuban bloke…….now don’t freak out he was not after me, but after the Jackster. Apparently my Spanglish is better than Jackies and Tans, so it was my job to translate. They guy was all crappy salsa and corny lines i.e. you have the key to my heart, I am yours forever (all in Spanish) and the only English he knew was “I Love You”………much hilarity ensued, even when we started telling him that Jackie was 50, had 3 kids and was married back in Australia…….nothing would deter this guy. Persistence obviously pays off in Cuba, but eventually he was denied and went off with a large pout and a few crocodile tears. Walked Jackie home, who by that stage whilst insisting she was not drunk, could not remember which casa she was staying in. There were a few nervous moments when we fronted up to the door of some random house and rang their bell, it was her casa. Got home at 12:30 am……..alarm set for 5am………ugh!
